Mull: Beaches, long road-trips and living in a farmhouse

1st October 2018

Scottish holidays are hands down my favourite kind of adventure. This particular trip was the first road trip where I was behind the wheel, and I loved it! Driving from Edinburgh to Oban via The Green Welly, we got the ferry to Craignure to begin our three-night adventure on this gorgeous Hebridean island.

We captured some of the magic in a wee homemade video which features a frog, some rope swinging, and a close cow encounter!

Taking the ferry to Mull from Oban was easy, and we chilled out at the bar with a deck of cards for the fifty or so minutes it took to cross the water. Our first stop was in Salen for a much-needed fish ‘n’ chips in what can only be described as a traditional, small-village Scottish hotel.

We walked inside, unsure if the restaurant was open, to be met by a man who led us through a carpeted corridor to an empty dining room. He switched some music on and meandered over with our menus. We took advantage of the Wi-Fi to locate our nearby campsite, Killiechronan, then suppressed a smile as the music was abruptly switched off as soon as our bill was paid. Onward!

The campsite was blissfully empty with the exception of one camper, a Scottish man with waist-length white hair who we approached with a stack of questions. Where do we pay? Where are the toilets? Do you by any chance have a bottle opener? He was massively helpful, and as it turns out there were toilets quite a little walk away in a yard full of landrovers, but no showers of course. The campsite owner would appear in the early evening on a quad bike to collect our £5 each.

Tent pitched, we sat on the rocks by the water in time for the sunset. There were geese flying overhead, rain clouds rolling in, and we sipped our cool beers until dusk. Little did we know we were about to sleep through a wild storm and experience cold like I’ve never felt before. We survived!

Waking up to clear skies, we packed up and spent our first full day on Mull driving around the north of the island. We headed to colourful Tobermory for lunch at The Mishnish, then took the windy roads to Calgary Bay, one of the most beautiful spots on Mull. There we followed a forest sculpture trail to the beach where the sand was pure white and the sunset was in full view. We could have stayed for hours. Instead we climbed a hill and accidentally walked onto a runway just in time for a tiny helicopter to land. Whoops!

Photo of Eve at Calgary Bay.

Calgary Bay

In the early evening, we followed the road back to Salen in search of Callachally House, a farmhouse that’s hundreds of years old. It was at the end of a long, grassy drive, and our host Ian met us as soon as we arrived. The floors creaked and the fire was already crackling in the sitting room when Ian showed us to the Finavon Room.

We met the other guests around the breakfast table the next morning, including Hamish, a little dog who was visiting with a lady from Edinburgh. I loved the mornings, it gave us all a chance to share tips about the island and update people we’d just met about our plans for the day ahead.

After breakfast, we got read for our last day exploring the island. We ventured to the south of Mull where there are wide open beaches and empty landscapes. We had another fish ‘n’ chips in the slightly more upbeat Argyll Arms Hotel in Bunessan before heading to Uisken Beach, where people were swimming in the freezing cold water! If you’re visiting this beach, it’s worth also driving a little further along to Ardalanish Beach and stopping by Ardalanish Isle of Mull Weavers for a nosey and some ice cream.

Photo of Naveed on a rock at Uisken Beach.

Uisken Beach

Photo of Eve inside Ardalanish weavers.

We took the scenic route back to Salen, my favourite drive of the trip, just in time for another west coast sunset. This was where we were stopped by a herd of cows, among which were some very large bulls. They were taller than my car…not cool!

Our last night was spent by the cosy fire in Ian’s sitting room enjoying all the books in his library. It was the perfect end to a perfect trip, and I cannot wait to visit more Hebridean islands!

2 comments so far.

2 responses to “Mull: Beaches, long road-trips and living in a farmhouse”

  1. Jean Smith says:

    Absolutely loved this piece! Watched the video, what a joy, some real laugh out loud moments. Got a nice sense of the Island and the beauty of the place.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.